印尼游记4-日惹 Candi Kalasan & Sari

日惹最古老的佛教庙宇 Candi Kalasan

Initially constructed during the late 8th century, the design of Candi Kalasan underwent a   considerable number of changes during the remainder of Central Java's Classic Age
The temple plan is cross-shaped 12 corners polygon.

离Prambanan 古迹区约二公里外的Candi Kalasan 是日惹最古老的佛教庙宇,被誉为最独特和拥有最精细雕刻的古庙。

现场空荡荡没有游客,我们买了入门票(IDR2000),慢慢的在庙外走了一圈。

这寺庙有个独特的八角型屋顶,远看有点像金字塔型,近看时才发觉它外墙上的雕刻是如此的精细。

Beautiful detail carving in the main entrance
Beautiful detail carving in the main entrance that showed typical Javanese arts

Another sealed entrances carving
Gates adorned with Kala-Makara
The niches adorned outer wall intricately carved with Kala, gods and divinities in scene of svargaloka, celestial palace abode of gods, apsaras, and gandharvas.
The niches adorned outer wall intricately carved with Kala, gods and divinities in scene of svargaloka, celestial palace abode of gods, apsaras, and gandharvas.

它原建于778年,现有的建筑物则是九世纪时Sailendra皇朝为供奉Tara女神而在原址重建的寺庙,1927年与1939年重修,因很多建筑石块已不见了,所以难以修复成原状。

走到东面的唯一进口(离地面有整3-4米),两个小瓜吵着要爬上去看看。我看石梯已损坏,就说由我和大弟打前锋上去拍照好了,我们手脚并用从石堆爬上去,石室空荡荡,没有佛像,里面的石墙也没有雕刻,唯一特别处是有个高高的天井。

上去时还可以,爬下去时才知道凶险,因为门口离地超过三四米高,一不小心, 可能会摔成骨折,幸亏那两个小瓜没上来,不然不知如何收场。

Gates adorned with Kala-Makara
The gate is richly decorated with Kala-Makara & buddhist figures
Inner roof seen from the main chamber, come to about 14m from the sub-base
Inner roof seen from the main chamber, come to about 14m from the sub-base
Original Candi Kalasan plan, awaiting for full restoration
Original Candi Kalasan plan, awaiting for full restoration

千年寺院 Candi Sari

Candi-Sari-s-00000
Candi Sari is an imposing 8th Century Temple in the Kalasan. It has two stories with three rooms and is decorated with very fine statues of Bodhisattvas on the outside.

离Candi Kalasan 两百米外就是同时期(西元九世纪左右)建造的 Candi Sari。

在斋戒月里,躲藏在住宅区里的寺院只有我们一家人,管理员还是我们绕了一圈后准备离开时才从后院里慢慢走出来收费的 (入门票IDR2000)。

我们发现这儿的管理员都不太老实,付了钱还要跟他们讨票根,我们的司机就曾骂了Candi Plaosan 的管理员一顿, 因他不但多收了我们钱,也没有发票,钱就入了个人的袋子。凑巧,Candi Plaosan, Candi Kalasan 和 Candi Sari 都是同一个办公室管理的。

Carving on the outside wall
Carving on the outside wall

Candi Sari 与Candi Plaosan Lor 很相似,也是四方型的两层建筑物(阔17.30米,深10米,高17 米),内有三个石室和祭坛,外墙有美丽精细有关佛教与神像的石雕。

考古学家推测这应该是个和尚住宿修道的寺院, 一楼供奉佛像、修道打斋念经, 二楼则是和尚、信徒和朝圣者住宿的地方。这些和尚可能就是Candi Kalasan 里的主持和比丘尼。

石级虽然破损,但还可以走上庙里,可惜主石室和两旁的石室里原本该放置佛像的地方都空空如也。听说有些铜像被无知的村民当废铁偷偷的卖了,有些则被西方”雅贼”偷了,我想如不是石头太笨重或是被火山碎屑淹没了,这些古迹也不能保存至今呀!

。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。

印尼游记系列:

  1. 婆罗浮屠
  2. Merapi 火山
  3. 日惹-Candi Plaosan
  4. 日惹
  5. 雅加达
  6. 吃在印尼
  7. 印尼21-25 Aug 09 图辑

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